A bath within an inexpensive 24" long plastic tub (walmart/Sterilite) protects your horn. Flitz brand brass polish is extremely fine and I find it to be ideal for horns as it imparts an excellent tarnish inhibitor along with a superior shine.all without thinning out the brass and/or affecting the etchings/inscriptions in the brass.īTW, Rather than wasting time, materials, labor and over-buffing or unequally buffing, ALWAYS first remove remaining patches of lacquer.
Olds ambassador cornet 823953 professional#
or the instrument will get damaged the same way.ĭue to difficulty for the everyman to do a fine job, or costliness of a professional one, many horn players wax their instruments with a range of products from Pledge, to car waxes such as caranuba. And DO NOT put the instrument back to its case when the case is still wet. OR it will damage the surface of the instrument. If the solution accidentally touches the instrument, completely wipe it out with a cloth. DO NOT spray the carbonate solution over the cornet-trumpet. If you feel it is still smelly, repeat this procedure. Wit this method the smell goes considerably. Then I've used a water atomizer-sprayer plastic bottle to spray this carbonate diluted water into and around the case. To get rid of this smell I've mixed some carbonate into water and stirred to melt it all, then added more carbonate until it accepts and melts no more. The case had a musty moisty smell as well. Try a small amount first, then adjust the amount as you experiment.Ģ-Rub without excessive force and with high frequency reciprocal movements, with speed.ģ-Goto step 1 until the surface is shiny enough for you.ĭo not forget to wash the instrument inside out after the polishing is complete to clean off the remainder of the polishing cream, if it gets into the valves, can cause damage due to abrasion. Even a wider ribbon can be helpful for polishing the bell area.ġ-Apply some metal polisher to the surface. So go get both types, 2cm for polishing narrow areas-gaps and 5cm wide for wider spaces. After experimenting, I saw that wider ribbon could have been better and easier to use in some areas. I've bought some metal polishing cream and some polishing cloth for giving the instrument a nice shine. I've removed wires etc, again did a surface cleaning, removed some solder blobs here and there dremel or hand. It is always possible to file away the solder blobs with a dremel later. I wanted the joints to be as strong as possible, so I've used a bit more solder than just adequate. Be careful and heat only where heat is necessary. But do not exaggerate, some other soldered parts of the instrument may become loose or the lacquer layer may burn. If it doesn't melt this way, either try a thinner soldering wire or get the flame a bit closer while pushing the solder wire in.ĥ-Do not put on too much solder at once, melt small drips and let them flow into the broken joint, filling the gaps.Ħ-Slowly rotate the instrument while heating to let the liquid solder to flow towards where you want it to.ħ-When the bond seems ok, cool & harden it with a spray of water to prevent solder to flow out of the joint.Ĩ-Do not hesitate to heat the instrument as it is not possible to do soldering without the surfaces reaching the necessary temperature. If too tight for sand paper, a thin metal tip or small blade can also work.Ĥ-Point away the torch and simultaneously touch to both of the surfaces to be soldered with the tip of the soldering wire and push it into the gap, trying to melt it with the heat of the metals as it goes in. The sequence of soldering for me is as follows ġ-Clean the area of solder, by sand paper if possible. It melts and drips to the ground, just at the moment it gets a little close to the flame, without even touching the point to be soldered. I've also tested the electronics soldering wire, it is too thin.
![olds ambassador cornet 823953 olds ambassador cornet 823953](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/KggAAOSwXR1fQR57/s-l300.jpg)
I've bought soldering wire a bit thicker than electronics soldering wires. But I guess it is better this way, as it makes making mistakes a bit more difficult also.
![olds ambassador cornet 823953 olds ambassador cornet 823953](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/NfsAAOSwfTVar93d/s-l400.jpg)
The soldering took a bit long as even this torch is a bit weak for this kind of job. So something strong is needed.Ī hand type torch did the job for me. Other types of flameless soldering irons, guns etc would most probably be too weak as the areas & parts to solder are big and the instrument itself also acts like a radiator, taking heat away from the point being soldered. It should also be noted that for most makers, there will be examples in the catalog where the model is unknown and therefore not represented in this listing.The key to this kind of soldering is to be careful and slow as you'll be working with a powerful flame.
![olds ambassador cornet 823953 olds ambassador cornet 823953](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/a4/c5/00/a4c500f5411a7d9c36c1c0d560f95fae.jpg)
This listing is intended to include makers where the majority of their model designations are known. Sets of instruments by Makers will be periodically added to this table.